Byzantine silk with two-headed eagle and lions, hand printed, red

Product description

Hand printed silk fabric reproduction of historical samite from Muslim Spain with an 11th–12th century Byzantine design. A bit lighter than classic brocade or samite, with more drape, this still sturdy fabric is perfect for historical clothing and decor as well as modern fashion and interiors. The silk fabric is screen printed by hand using a special stencil.

Origin and pattern

This historical fabric motif depicts a double-headed eagle with lions clasped in its talons. An example of the masterful textile craft of the 11th–12th centuries, the original silk fabric that inspired our reproduction comes from the tomb of Saint Bernard Calvo, Bishop of Vich in Catalonia, who died in 1243. The fabric is now in the collections of the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York and the Musée des Tissus in Lyon, France.

The textile may have been a prize of war taken during the Reconquista led by Saint Bernard Calvo against the Muslims in Spain. However, its origin is a matter of debate. The fabric shows strong Byzantine influence, particularly a group of silks with an eagle motif from Auxerre. But in spite of that, it is considered to be a Muslim Spanish work that differs significantly from the Byzantine school it drew inspiration from.

The figure of the two-headed eagle clasping lions in its talons is typical of Spanish silks of this period, when local weavers freely borrowed Byzantine and Middle Eastern designs for their work and imitated Byzantine luxury fabrics. Our reproduction is a celebration of the rich textile heritage of medieval Spain and a testament to the fascinating cultural interconnection of Muslim, Byzantine and European cultures there.

This pattern reconstruction is the intellectual property of SARTOR BOHEMIA.

Printed textiles in the Middle Ages

In the Middle Ages, richly patterned fabrics were signifiers of luxury, power and prestige reserved for the upper crust. These precious textiles, symbols of power and wealth, were often bestowed as diplomatic gifts and were also prized as spoils of war. Brocade designs were woven into the cloth itself, a process that was both time consuming and costly.

Printing a design onto fabric instead of weaving it in was an affordable alternative that was more widely accessible. Prints were largely inspired by the ornate brocades of the time. Textile printing techniques began spreading in Europe from Asia in the 12th and 13th centuries.

Screen printing

Screen printing is a relatively young technique next to block printing (which uses wood or metal stamps) – it is “only” about a thousand years old. It uses a stencil made with a silk cloth stretched in a frame that is laid on the fabric to be printed and then wiped with the color solution.

Doing this by hand requires experience and precision. The screen is re-placed repeatedly on the fabric so that details of the pattern match up. Particular care must be taken when preparing the stencil and ink too. That is why we entrusted this reproduction fabric to a trusted studio in India with a long and unrivalled tradition in hand printing textiles.

Fabric

This historical pattern is printed on wild eri silk. We chose this unusual type of silk for its texture, feel and appearance, which are a bit rougher than mulberry silk and more similar to the samite fabrics of the period found in museum collections. It is light, soft and incredibly pleasant to the touch. It has all the qualities of mulberry silk except for its high sheen; it is almost matte.

Twill weave

Twill weave fabric is characterized by a weave texture with a distinct diagonal stripe. Probably the most known twill fabric today is denim, which embodies the two main qualities of twill – strength and elasticity. Twill fabrics keep their shape because a twill weave holds better and is less prone to loosen up than a plain weave.

Fine twill fabrics made of silk or synthetic fibers, often referred to by the French term serge, are great choices for scarves, dresses, and sturdy, lightweight linings. Thicker fibers, like linen or cotton, make a sturdy fabric that is ideal for seam-stressed garments like pants and blazers.

Uses

This printed silk serge with its authentic historical print is perfect for medieval costumes and cosplay creations.

But don’t be afraid to take the plunge and use it for contemporary fashion too. The combination of black and red is a classic and the stunning graphical motif can make for an interesting statement piece. Why not make a blouse to wear with black trousers? Or a pair of flowy wide leg pants to show off this lightweight, airy silk?

This fabric can play well in accessories too. Imagine a long pashmina-style wrap or a pretty neck scarf.

Sewing ideas

• Historical clothing
• Cosplay dress
• Blouse
• Wide leg pants
• Neck scarf or wrap
• Handbag detail

Care

We recommend dry cleaning this fabric at a reliable dry cleaner. If you risk hand washing, use lukewarm water and a delicate detergent for silks and woolens; do not wring or squeeze dry; lay flat to dry. Dry iron on the lowest setting.

Note, print color may run. Color may rub off even when dry, so beware of contact with fabrics in light colors.